Alisa Jacobson with her 2022 Turning Tide Picpoul Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara.
By Bob Wesley
Even after 400 years of cultivation, unless you cross the pond to Mediterranean France and sit yourself down in a café near the coast, you’ll rarely encounter the delights of this hard-to-imitate grape variety. Imports are far more prevalent in California than homegrowns, but still mighty rare overall in our retail stores or on wine lists. Shame on us!
The Pinet appellation is just 200 miles north of Spain for all you cartographers out there, but the grape hasn’t broadly migrated far outside of its own frontières françaises, though I’m glad to report that a prodigious 68 acres are actually planted in California.
Every pathetic wine geek, including me, knows the answer to this vino trivia question: What does the grape Picpoul (“pick pool”) mean in French? The answer is “lip stinger,” though in Golden State versions, the implied sharper and more tingly attributes of the Languedoc bottlings have been tamed by three extremely adept Santa Barbara winemakers, as described explicitly (but for a family audience) down below.
Picpoul and shellfish have thrived as a longtime regional pairing among the French, in a hearty, unpretentious, slurpy, symbiotic relationship that can be flavorsomely replicated stateside. Just grab a glass and shuck a dozen itty-bitty briny oysters on the half shell spritzed with fresh lemon, or steam pounds and pounds of littleneck clams in buttery herb broth, and don’t skimp on the baked mussels with bread crumbs and parmesan.
Add a baguette to the feast, of course, and seek out the toothsome local trio below.
2022 Turning Tide Picpoul Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
Produced by highly experienced but relative newcomer to Santa Ynez, Alisa Jacobson, this ’22 parades an aromatic maelstrom of crisp pear, green apple, and stony river rock, rather Chablis-like but nowhere near as austere, with added melon and slight citrus orchard playfully elbowing their way in. It’s fresh, forward, and vibrant, with an extended zesty finish and an interplay of every preceding pleasurable nuance, echoing its ancestral Languedoc homebase.
2022 Margerum Picpoul Blanc Estate Los Olivos District Santa Ynez Valley
Doug Margerum believes in battonage (lees stirring), ideal for balancing the puckery acidity of the varietal. Aromas of mineral, honey, and melony ripeness emerge instantly, and swirling prompts a further and more complex mélange of river rock, honey, lime, and Granny Smiths fresh off the tree. A touch of white floral essence appears for further intrigue. This is an affectionate replication of the Mediterranean bottlings I’ve had, with added dimensions but no “stinging.”
Babcock 2023 Picpoul “Gracious” Nolan Vineyard Alisos Canyon Santa Maria Valley
Voluminous aromatics waste no time in their seduction, with precise orange peel and minerality expressing themselves in this broader-styled version, with succulence that fans out across the palate. Dry but luxurious, with touches of butterscotch, graham cracker, and rounded tangerine mirroring the exquisite and ever-burgeoning aromas. Seamless, sexy, and ending in a finale that will extend and persevere till bedtime. If you possess or can find Bryan’s bottling of this limited production white, well, you’ve been alerted!
Bob Wesley is a Santa Ynez based wine buying consultant and writer specializing in California wines. You can reach him at maisonbob@aol.com
Photo credit: Courtesy Turning Tide
