Savor the best of Washington’s Walla Walla Valley
By Hana-Lee Sedgwick
Lucky for us, some of California’s finest wine regions are just a stone’s throw away. Exploring the wineries of the Central Coast is one of my favorite activities, both professionally and personally. However, my wine adventures often take me beyond our local vineyards to other regions, throughout California and to other states. One place I’ve enjoyed visiting over the years is the Walla Walla Valley in Washington.
Walla Walla may be famous for its sweet onions, but it has become a premium location for growing wine grapes, too. Situated along the Washington-Oregon border, the Walla Walla Valley AVA is home to the highest concentration of wineries in Washington State, featuring over 135 wineries and nearly 3,000 acres under vine.
Sharing a similar latitude to that of Bordeaux, France, it’s no surprise that grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot thrive, but Walla Walla is also renowned for its syrah (the second most planted grape). And, though you will find some white varietals on tasting lists, such as chardonnay and viognier, the majority are sourced from other areas of Washington, since only 5% of Walla Walla’s total planted acres are dedicated to white grapes. In short, if you’re a red wine enthusiast, this is a great spot to visit. Here’s how to make your trip extra memorable.
Where to Stay
One of my personal favorite places to stay is the Inn at Abeja. This century-old farmstead-turned-inn and winery, located just a few miles outside of town, is inarguably one of the most serene retreats in the region. Each spacious guest room and cottage is a nod to the property’s rich history, adorned with vintage decor and historical photographs, while plush in-room amenities and thoughtful details ensure a stay feels extra relaxing. As a guest, you’ll be treated to a delicious two-course breakfast each morning, along with a tasting of Abeja’s own acclaimed estate wines. And on weekends, the Inn’s on-site restaurant welcomes guests and locals to savor a multi-course menu of seasonal delicacies, with optional wine pairings.
If you’d prefer to be within walking distance to downtown Walla Walla’s shops and restaurants, The Finch is a great budget-friendly (and dog-friendly) option. This reimagined 80-room motel charms with an artsy, youthful vibe, featuring local art and communal games like giant Jenga and cornhole. Alternatively, consider downtown’s The Marcus Whitman. Steeped in history, this 1920s-era hotel once ranked among Washington’s finest, regularly hosting celebrities and dignitaries. While renovations have added such modern conveniences as Wi-Fi, in-room coffee makers, and Tesla charging stations, the hotel still retains its classic elegance.
Where to Taste
The Walla Walla Valley is divided into six wine districts, each with its own unique vibe and offerings. Due to the region’s small size, however, they’re easily drivable between each other, making it possible to taste through the region in a few days.
Start with a visit to the picturesque vineyards of the Southside District, such as Pepper Bridge, for elegant examples of merlot and cabernet; Valdemar, for Spanish wine and tapas; or Brook and Bull, for untraditional blends by celebrated winemaker Ashley Trout. Also, don’t miss newcomer Kinhaven, for small-lot wines and vineyard views, as well as fellow newbie, Alton Wines, where an array of wines can be enjoyed within the light-filled, modern tasting room.
On the Westside, you’ll find many of Walla Walla’s oldest wineries, such as Woodward Canyon, along with industrial spots, like the art-forward Foundry Vineyards. Across town is the Eastside, where Abeja is located, as well as the innovative Airport District. Be sure to visit up-and-comers Hoquetus Wine Co., SMAK, and Itä Wines.
In downtown Walla Walla, tasting rooms abound, so you’ll have your choice of options. Check out the chic new Dossier; the Master Sommelier co-founded Echolands; actor Kyle MacLachlan’s Pursued by Bear; and Rasa, for terroir-driven wines.
Finally, furthest south is the Oregon District, home of the famed Rocks District—a sub-AVA most noted for syrah.
Where to Eat
Start the morning off right with breakfast at Bacon & Eggs, where hearty, locavore offerings are accompanied by coffee, cocktails, and a bustling atmosphere. For lunch, you can’t beat AK’s Mercado. Get an order of tacos, served on homemade tortillas and stuffed with braised meats and salsas, or opt for the extra spicy VooDoo Fries.
For dinner, don’t miss Passatempo Taverna, a local favorite for its handmade pastas and inventive cocktails; Saffron, for inspired Mediterranean fare; Hattaways, for a taste of the South; or Brasserie Four, beloved for its classic French fare.
How to Get There
Given its location in Southeast Washington, Walla Walla may seem a little isolated, but there are several ways to get there. Alaska Airlines offers flights from Santa Barbara (SBA) and San Luis Obispo (SBP) to Walla Walla (ALW), with layovers in Seattle. While you can’t beat Alaska’s Wine Flies Free program, Delta flies directly from Los Angeles (LAX) to Spokane, WA (GEG), putting you within a 2.5-hour drive of Walla Walla.
